January 2010. Tried out contouring technique with triangle and spirit level - then had to work out what to do with them! Easy and interesting to note how the eye deceives, but generally ran across land as expected, on gentle slope down towards road and dam. Dug out shallow swale - about 5cm being as deep as spade manages in this sun-hardened clay - and raked up to it to start building it up. Now to decide if there's anything that might grow here!
contours marked, below house on slope running down to dam (above) and a little lower running between existing olive trees (below).
Ordered as bare-rooted trees for delivery in July.
1 x Mulberry, Hicks Fancy
Almonds:
1 x Ne Plus Ultra
1 x Self-pollinating almond
1 x Californian papershell
June 2010. Swales round olives developing nicely, with regular raking of leaf litter to build up mulch just beyond dripline on lower side, and swale ditch redug periodically to improve size and contouring on upper side. At right, shows swale filled with litter and still damp from rain, with bulbs starting to sprout from mound above swale. Below, shows general pattern of swales/mulch, with swale full after rain.
July 2010. Lots of work done over past couple of months. Continued raking of leaf litter to build up mulch, and clearing of stones and sticks to make raking easier. The new rows along contour lines, alternating between existing olives, are being built up with short swales dug - upper row includes substantial gradual digging over and incorporating of compost and soil, ready to take fruit trees.
July 11
Trees planted out! From drive towards house, being self-pollinating almond, Californian papershell almond, Ne Plus Ultra almond, Hicks Fancy mulberry, and pomegranate punica granatum (that had originally been planned for closer to the house). Joined up their swales with shallow channels, as recent rains show not all swales fill to a similar extent, so hopefully this will spread the goodness a little more evenly.
Trees planted out! From drive towards house, being self-pollinating almond, Californian papershell almond, Ne Plus Ultra almond, Hicks Fancy mulberry, and pomegranate punica granatum (that had originally been planned for closer to the house). Joined up their swales with shallow channels, as recent rains show not all swales fill to a similar extent, so hopefully this will spread the goodness a little more evenly.
allocasuarina (drooping sheoak) newly planted to north/east of living room window in fire sector. This drought-hardy fire-retardant tree should act as a spark catcher while creating summer shade near front steps/driveway as potential outdoor lunch area. Mesh is being used to protect from kangaroos, as nursery salesgirl reported problems with this at her own property.
An allocasuarina has also been planted closer to the drive, n/w of front door, with provision for a 'matching' one to the n/e of house front, which should serve as 'spark catchers' in the event of fire, and also provide some green and shade to compensate for gums closer to the house that should really come down at some point, being definitely fire hazards as they're close enough to fall across roof, and one has already come perilously close to roof when falling in high wind.
daffodils and shallots growing unharmed in grove, where amaryllis has been sampled and rejected by a grazing roo or wallaby
July 25
Bulbs planted into olive swales making progress. Of particular interest are areas where daffodils have been planted - lifted from crowded pots from last autumn - and shallots are being tried. Shallots separated and planted out from bulbs planted in veg garden last summer have been used in both the grove and the veg garden, hoping to see them survive and multiply in a less tended (Zone 3) area.
Bulbs planted into olive swales making progress. Of particular interest are areas where daffodils have been planted - lifted from crowded pots from last autumn - and shallots are being tried. Shallots separated and planted out from bulbs planted in veg garden last summer have been used in both the grove and the veg garden, hoping to see them survive and multiply in a less tended (Zone 3) area.
Biggest threat will be animals, but these do seem to leave most bulbs alone, and I've even read of onions being planted as a barrier deterrent to rabbits as they so dislike them. Elsewhere, one amaryllis has clearly been sampled (probably by a roo) and found wanting!
August 2010.
Bare-rooted fruit trees are already showing signs of new growth, less than two weeks after planting. In this area, almonds and mulberry are clearly growing. Pomegranate is yet to show signs of life...
bare-rooted mulberry showing new growth on stems and buds appearing
August 18
Put in Diggers order. Have decided on a juniper to complete the row of new trees, and will use last year's potted fig to plant on the slope below the lounge-room window, where it will hopefully create a small cool oasis just beyond the house, for summer use, while also acting to a degree as a firebreak/sparkcatcher.
Strong, sustained winter rains over recent weeks. Swales are filling well, and the outlets from house roof help direct significant rain toward the swales and their connecting channel - perhaps not a bad system to leave in place - makes installation of a tank off the house feel less pressing.
September 2010.
Started the month with massive sustained rainfall over several days - floods through the state, but here just rain, rain and more blessed rain!
All the new fruit trees are now showing clear signs of growth, with some blossoms starting to open on the almonds and mulberry.
The potted fig from last season has now been transplanted below the house, along with the second of the two drooping sheoaks. This pretty much completes the planned trees for this area. Just waiting on the ordered juniper to arrive. The job now will be to work out if, when and how to remove existing gums. For now, they probably provide a bit of protective cover, but at some point they'll be plain competition. And whatever value they offer, the ones closest to the house are worrying in terms of fire hazard or even wind.
The system of channels and swales seems to be working pretty well. House roof run-off ends up at the trees, and the channels seem to be distributing water OK across the grove. Now heavy rain is over, some redigging of swales and channels would be worthwhile, given topsoil washed down, but that's a welcome job - a good problem to have.
Having mixed success with bulbs, in that animals still sample some, but I'll persevere - they don't seem especially vulnerable, so I'll tell myself the animals may need to eat a nasty one to learn their lesson! But the daffodils and jonquils that are in flower in this area are lovely and cheerful, and the shallots are perservering, even when 'pruned' by animals. Am uprooting cape tulips as they reappear, now they've been identified as controlled weeds, and given they don't add anything of value that can't be better offered by other plants (at best, pretty flowers and a bit of stabilising or mulch barriers).
daffodils (above) growing happily in swales around olives, while shallots (front, right) that had been sampled by roos or rabbits are recovering
More rain!
The mulberry appeared to have a setback (frost?) with new growth on stems dying back and emerging leads blackening and dying, but some new leaves and developing fruit are now evident.
The pomegranate is finally showing some new growth, tiny red leafbuds along its many stems.
The fig, after a single leaf sprouted from the tip of its larger stem, only to wither, is now showing numerous green buds near the top of that stem. Let's hope it establishes in this new location and flourishes.
Finally, the juniper has just (October 20) been planted out, to complete this planned row.
Following rain, area immediately beyond planting mounds was aerated with the large fork, and some soil loosed by pick around that. As gum leaves continue to fall and dry, and grass and weeds that have made an appearance with rain get mowed back, there will hopefully some prospect of raking up material to mulch this area. Mushroom compost and/or sheep manure is also available to spread round this area.
Spring has prompted much resprouting around base of olives, which needs a bit of rubbing off, as well as emergent new growth on eucalypt burls, which gets rubbed or pinched off on daily walks to/from the letter box and in general wanderings around. Healthy growth of grass around olives, though it will need trimming or removal, does at least attest to improved growing conditions in these worked (swales/mulch) areas.
November 2010
Big sigh of relief, as new and replanted trees in grove are now all showing signs of healthy growth. The pomegranate is now covered in its tiny reddish new growth, the replanted fig has glossy young leaves forming, both drooping cassinias show significant new growth, the juniper seems settled in, the mulberry - despite quick initial new growth on stems having died back (frost tender?) - now has a healthy covering of leaves and many fruits forming, and the three almonds are a leafy vision, with growing nuts on all.
Will watch to see whether birds discover these ones and if so what damage they do, but initial challenge is to establish the trees - a first-season crop would be an added extra. Nonetheless, shouldn't be hard to net such small trees if signs of bird damage appear. Pete (next door) says the cockatoos will bit off any nuts if they find them.
Rain prompted lots of grassy growth too, so Chris has bought a lawnmower and the first significant day of mowing creating lots of clippings, some of which were used to provide the first mulching for these new trees, now that we are getting some warmer days.
Swales have worked well in recent rains, though significantly filled now with washed down soil. Some of this, particularly around the trees themselves (rather than in the connecting channels) has been dug out and added to planting mounds. A shock to see something resembling fine, friable soil!
Wet early, hot and dry belatedly. A month of watching and pottering. Raking of leaf litter is ongoing, and the new lawnmower got a workout over the property, not only knocking down grass and weeds in this area, but creating lots of clippings to end up as mulch of planting mounds on more vulnerable plants.
All the new plants continue their encouraging growth, with pomegranate finally flowering - a first flush dropping after the first brief heatwave, but new ones following shortly behind - and a handful of almonds continue to grow and ripen. A 'harvest' this first year will be an unexpected bonus.
The unmissable accents of pomegranate flowers, ardently popping against those glossy green and red-tinged leaves
The mulberry, powering along, with the pomegranate in the background, and view northeast in the direction of the dancehall nextdoor. The built-up and mulched planting mounds are clear here, as is the contoured channel connecting swales at each mound and catching stormwater from the west half of houseroof (for the time being, not connected to tank system).
January 2011
More rain. Plants showing immediate benefit in accelerating growth, as with the fig that has now burst beyond its wire cage and is looking very lush.
July 2011: 'Annual Report'
This area has developed really well - beyond expectations. Two new rows for fruit/nut trees have been established between olives along contour lines. Plants were planted into the top row last winter (fig, pomegranate, black mulberry, 3 almonds, juniper) and are establishing well. Additional almonds will be planted in the lower row before departure.
The olives have had a spectacular harvest, and planting areas around them are slowly building up.
Two allocasuarinas have also been planted on grassy area below front of house.
Some seasonal flowers (iris, daffodils, amaryllis, agapanthus) are growing around the trees in this area, being used to add some colour and interest but also to help hold and build up compost and soil around the growing area of each plant.
2011/2012 Maintenance
ONGOING: rake area between plants clean, raking any leaf litter, grass clippings and animal droppings into the mulch barriers/mounds around the trees.
ONGOING: rub/kick/pull out suckering gums that appear
ONGOING: look for selfsown wirilda and cassinia - where appearing around edge of growing area of fruit/nut trees, leave to grow as they will provide some protection and may enrich soil. If appearing in open areas between the trees, pull out.
ONGOING: monitor fruit/nut trees for signs of pests or animal damage
ONGOING: periodically aerate soil just beyond drip zone of fruit/nut trees using a fork and/or pick (managable after solid rain)
SPRING: look for appearance of burr-bearing weeds and remove if desire
SPRING: fertilise fruit/nut trees with compost and manure applied as a mulch, and water with diluted worm-farm liquid
SPRING: if channels have filled with soil or leaf litter, clear out by raking and/or redigging
SPRING: if swales around fruit/nut trees have filled with soil or leaf litter, redig them, expanding swale a little further on the side away from tree, and turning any soil/litter towards the tree to build up planting mound
SPRING/SUMMER: water fruit/nut trees as necessary - monitor for signs of heat stress - water directly to fill swale
SPRING/SUMMER: remove any significant suckering from base of olives, to retain most manageable shape for harvesting
SPRING-AUTUMN: mow between plants if needed to keep any long grass from becoming a fire risk
SPRING-AUTUMN: prune out any damaged wood from fruit/nut trees
SUMMER: gently rake away any bulky dry mulch that isn't breaking down. Rake this towards drip line to create a clearer area around tree trunks (to reduce fire risk by breaking continuity). This can be used to create a semi-circular barrier on lower side of fruit/nut trees planted in mounds (to help trap rainfall around drip line), as can be currently seen with olives.
SUMMER-AUTUMN: harvest as appropriate!
July 2011: 'Annual Report'
This area has developed really well - beyond expectations. Two new rows for fruit/nut trees have been established between olives along contour lines. Plants were planted into the top row last winter (fig, pomegranate, black mulberry, 3 almonds, juniper) and are establishing well. Additional almonds will be planted in the lower row before departure.
The olives have had a spectacular harvest, and planting areas around them are slowly building up.
Two allocasuarinas have also been planted on grassy area below front of house.
Some seasonal flowers (iris, daffodils, amaryllis, agapanthus) are growing around the trees in this area, being used to add some colour and interest but also to help hold and build up compost and soil around the growing area of each plant.
2011/2012 Maintenance
ONGOING: rake area between plants clean, raking any leaf litter, grass clippings and animal droppings into the mulch barriers/mounds around the trees.
ONGOING: rub/kick/pull out suckering gums that appear
ONGOING: look for selfsown wirilda and cassinia - where appearing around edge of growing area of fruit/nut trees, leave to grow as they will provide some protection and may enrich soil. If appearing in open areas between the trees, pull out.
ONGOING: monitor fruit/nut trees for signs of pests or animal damage
ONGOING: periodically aerate soil just beyond drip zone of fruit/nut trees using a fork and/or pick (managable after solid rain)
SPRING: look for appearance of burr-bearing weeds and remove if desire
SPRING: fertilise fruit/nut trees with compost and manure applied as a mulch, and water with diluted worm-farm liquid
SPRING: if channels have filled with soil or leaf litter, clear out by raking and/or redigging
SPRING: if swales around fruit/nut trees have filled with soil or leaf litter, redig them, expanding swale a little further on the side away from tree, and turning any soil/litter towards the tree to build up planting mound
SPRING/SUMMER: water fruit/nut trees as necessary - monitor for signs of heat stress - water directly to fill swale
SPRING/SUMMER: remove any significant suckering from base of olives, to retain most manageable shape for harvesting
SPRING-AUTUMN: mow between plants if needed to keep any long grass from becoming a fire risk
SPRING-AUTUMN: prune out any damaged wood from fruit/nut trees
SUMMER: gently rake away any bulky dry mulch that isn't breaking down. Rake this towards drip line to create a clearer area around tree trunks (to reduce fire risk by breaking continuity). This can be used to create a semi-circular barrier on lower side of fruit/nut trees planted in mounds (to help trap rainfall around drip line), as can be currently seen with olives.
SUMMER-AUTUMN: harvest as appropriate!